Duryea Lobsters

Lobsters are one of the most misunderstood sea creatures. They are, to be frank, giant sea bugs that comb the sea’s surfaces for tasty eats. They eat dead stuff. They were once upon a time, quite literally, junk food – victuals for the workingman, according to my favorite lobster meditation by David Foster Wallace.

Then someone got the bright idea to make them fancy and they are ubiquitously served at every fine restaurant in New York City. I believe Le Bernandin serves them at least six different ways, always under some light foamy sea urchin sauce or whatever. At some point in culinary history, the lobster became the food that signaled that you had arrived. For some communities, it’s shrimp. For the upper middle class, it’s lobster. The luxury lifestyle explosion and climate change in the past 10 years have nearly drained the east coast dry of them. Prices are soaring; catches are pathetic, according to the New Haven Register.

However, it’s a fine food, don’t get me wrong. But I also don’t think it’s all that. Chances are it’s overcooked and tough and lacks all the delicate buttery-ness that crab has. Anyway, the only real dishes I think lobsters are suited for are bisque (served with a nice shot of sherry) and lobster rolls.

And that brought me to Duryea Lobsters, at the tip on Long Island in Montauk this weekend. It has a legendary reputation; locals, including the Barefoot Contessa herself, were shoulder to shoulder on the deck with their BYOB of pink zin and yellow chards getting busy with the sea beast. Our group, six in all, also tucked into lobster rolls ($17.95). They were served on a toasted sesame roll, cole slaw and potato chips and we washed them down with lemonade. Duryea makes a damn good lobster roll: the lobster filling is a plentiful; meaty chunks well-covered in mayonnaise, seasoned amply with dill and black pepper. The roll buttered and each bite was a delicious bite of sweet meat, salty butter and mayonnaise and the tickle of spices.

We ate silently, wiped our lips and trekked home. A lobster roll like that has only one kind of dessert: a long-nap in a shaded hammock. Done and done.


Where: 65 Tuthill Road, Montauk, NY, (631) 668-2410