Cha-An

A real authentic Japanese tea house has such a pleasant and reassuring atmosphere you feel like you're in the pages of a Murakami novel. Minus the man with the mid-life crisis ruminating about all the crazy suicidal beauties in his life.

We strode into Cha-An tea house for some late night light fare in the East Village tonight. Tea is obviously the thing to come here for. They have dozens of varieties, from woozy oolongs to stinky pu-ehrs to jasmines, which once I declared "tasted like girls". That sounds weird and perfect at the same time. I am especially a fan of the gorgeous Jasmine Pearls that bloom in your cup. (You can get six pearls for $8.)

But the bites were fantastic too: the six appetizer plate (small bites of six flavors) included bean skin with seaweed, roasted and salted burdock root, tea-smoked sashimi salmon with radish and mustard sauce, roasted shrimp, basil marinated cap mushrooms and a fish cake for $11. Take a peek into the meticulous kitchen and you'll notice something different for a Japanese restaurant: the chefs are all women. And there is - without getting stereotypical - something very feminine and lovely about the food choices and preparation. For dessert I had a green tea macaroon and a sake mojito ($7).

I can't imagine a more charming place to steal away with a book alone or to go on a mellow date. Or for the three of us tonight, a place for a nibble. Noriko, our waitress, was ebulliently sweet. Go Japan, go! Take me to your leader!

Where: 230 E. 9th Street, East Village, 212-228-8030