HanGawi

One of the best things about eating and enjoying restaurants is the ability to pass on a great recommendation. And it is also a treasure to receive one and then make good on it. That is how our recent dinner at HanGawi came to be. “For special occasions,” said my co-worker Brett, who gave me the name of this Korean vegetarian “shrine”.

Special occasions indeed. For myself and Anjum (nee BF) it was a Friday night date. For at least three other tables there, a birthday. The wood-beamed, shoes-free temple-ish environment did two things: instantly transport you to another time and place (Zen temple 100 years ago) and create a peaceful calm in us.

After leaving your footware by the door, you are led across tatami-matted floors to low tables. The menu, all vegetarian, has delightful sounding items like Emperor Rolls and Vermicelli Genghis Khan. There are a number of treasures to be found: fresh plum juice, ginseng salad, crispy sweet and sour mushrooms (a real crowd-pleaser), and many different kinds of pancakes (leek, pumpkin, kimchee). The seasonal specialty was a Korean mountain root called todok. Like a more tender, much milder ginseng root, the meaty root was sliced and then grilled in soy ginger sauce and was quite tasty. It has, according to their menu, many medicinal properties that are appropriately vague such as strengthening blood, increasing energy, etc.

For dessert I ordered the ginger tea, which was strong and served with pinenuts, and blueberry coconut cake. Anjum went for toasted almond tofu ice cream (why dairy when you can tofu!) and the Royal Green Tea from Mt. Jilee. The grassy, mountainous brew is for only the most hardcore of green tea drinkers.

The whole experience was warm and delightful; we felt satisfied both in mind and body after this dining experience. What stood out as well was how well I slept that night and how good I felt the next morning. The post-dining glow instilled faith in me that all that ginseng and todok really do have medicinal properties, and those vague promises of 'health' hold some weight.

Where: 12 E32nd Street, between Fifth and Madison; 212-213-0077