Ali's Kebab Cafe

Ali is a friend of a friend. The Alexandria native is also a local Steinway Ave. legend, which was cemented into fact by a recent appearance on "No Reservations" (after many mentions on food blogs and local magazines.) His Kebab Cafe anchors Astoria's Egypt row of hookah and kebab houses. Yesterday, he made us a special dinner for Easter: we started with pita and various dips, on to duck liver on lentils, marinated sardines, poached egg on braised lamb cheeks, sweetbreads with peppers, and then the piece de resistance: a spring lamb roasted with squash, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, wild celery and herbs and spices. We finished with with a struffoli, from a nearby Italian bakery, which we brought ourselves. It was amazing; we were the only ones on the restaurant and Ali outdid himself with his amazing hospitality and muscular love of life and eating.

Where: 25-12 Steinway St., Queens, NY, 718-728-9858