Jewel Bako out; Momoya In

Several days ago The BF and I strolled over to the East Village for more late-night Japanese. We landed at Jewel Bako for no particular reason other than he seemed to remember it – though it turned out he remembered something else, but no matter. The place at 10:10 p.m. was completely and totally empty (a Monday night), however they were still serving. So we sat down and watched the surly waiter clunk around soullessly, hitting my wineglass with silverware at least twice, I commented that it would probably close soon. It was too pretty, too pricey, too trendy and waaaaay too empty. The rage when it opened was all those things, but like a kewpie-doll showgirl, it ages, and you don’t want it anymore. My suspicions were confirmed on Eater today.

As a post-script: I thought the food was pretty good. We had braised (in parchment) salmon and mushrooms; and then we ate two of their $16 large sushi specialty rolls. We finished with a green tea profiterole. I don’t think the restaurant deserves a wretched flameout, but it does desperately need some adrenaline and joy.

In sharp contrast, the Upper West Side is trying really, really hard to be cool. Frankly, it will never be cool. But, did you know that UWS Jewish intellectuals love one thing more than public radio? It’s sushi! There are a stunning number of amazing sushi joints here (Gari, Haru, Sushi Planet – yum yum) and now we have Momoya. Straight from Chelsea. I had to cry a little tear at first as the restaurant moved into carriage-house space previously occupied by a great Korean green market where I bought my blackout six-pack way back when. After a 9-month renovation it’s now opened as the super bougie resto with gorgeous décor created out of blunt, sawed-off ends of 2x4s in differing heights. I loved it the minute I walked in.

They also have creative large rolls not dissimilar to Jewel Bako's in taste and presentation. I loved the Nakamura roll with yellowtail, jalapeno, salmon, tuna cucumber, scallop tartar with a beet sauce and almond sliver ($10). I also ordered my usual sashimi set: salmon, tuna and tomago – all were beautifully sliced. The service – a young Eastern European guy – was extremely good. The round booths at the back of the restaurant are very private for talking, or what have you, and hypnotically lit. Or is that the delicious Shirakawago Sasanigori? Mmmm. That is some cloudy cloudy sake. A++ for dates.

Where: 427 Amsterdam Ave., 212-580-0007