Eighty One

Eighty One is not just the name and address of this new restaurant. It is also perhaps the age of many clientle. Their spiritual age at least. The new restaurant was opened several months ago by Ed Brown, formerly of the Sea Grill (see Go Belly Up review).

Frank Bruni issued two stars last Wednesday, and I was tucking into the acclaimed vitals on Thursday. You don't always have a chance to follow so closely on Bruni's coattails. My interest also veered into personal territory because it is located stumbling distance from my apartment.

So how was it? Well, it was very "Upper West Side-ish." Go figure. The food was an entirely separate issue from the restaurant. The food was very, very good, though not quite mind-blowingly good enough to merit its very expensive price tags (most entrees over $35).

Or rather, with the food at this price, there just seemed to be a little something missing. It's hard to say what that "something" was: the service was attentive and friendly, the food excellent, the desserts beautiful. The "something", I suspect, was atmosphere. The other diners were older, tight-faced doyennes and then, strangely, a huge stroller (the massive kind with a built-in mobile) was parked in the dining room (along with attendant baby). Buzz kill.

I don't know about you, but when I come to the Upper West Side, I want to be reminded of its cool parts: the park views, the planetarium, the intellectual aspects, the characters. It should be a respite from downtown, as the leafy north, rather than an uncomfortable stay with relatives you neither knew you had nor do you really want to be around. It's one-long dinner with the in-laws.

Granted, the front of the restaurant, with its sliver of window overlooking the Natural History museum, is more clubby and welcoming to young couples. Understandably, other reviews, including Bruni's, bypass the creepy dining room in favor of the bar area. This has atmosphere; one almost wishes the whole restaurant had its dark-paneled elegance throughout.

The food: I started with the Baby Montauk Calamari ($17), grilled tendrils dressed in a very spicy pimento, which were tender and succulent. The BF went for the Sea Scallop and Foie Gras Ravioli ($17), generous and buttery, but not the best foie ravioli I've ever had. It didn't have that pop in your mouth whereupon your limbs melt, eyes widen and you have a moment. But good. He also ordered the White Asparagus and Marinated Leeks ($19) which was also wonderful and I could very much taste the Spring season. I couldn't resist the special crispy soft shell crabs, which are being served everywhere for the next week or two (in season). And he ordered the Casco Bay Codfish, one of Chef Brown's signature dishes. It tasted refined, perfectly measured and above all a real-crowd pleaser. A totally inoffensive dish at the height of its perfection. For desserts, the Greek Yogurt Cheesecake, with berries, was fantastic.

My final verdict: do as Bruni, and sit at the bar to eat. The food is excellent, but the dining room might suffocate you.

Were: 45 West 81st Street, New York, NY, 212-873-8181